The Date HAS been set!

I have been bombarded with the question, "When are you having the 2011 Spring Plant Swap?" Well, I finally found a few minutes and researched when everything else is going on here in Charleston....It wasn't easy...April is a VERY busy time here in the Lowcountry. Well, The Date HAS been set! It is April 9th, here in Charleston.
Plant Swaps are really a lot of fun. They are cheap, inexpensive ways to increase your garden. With the economy the way it is, finding ways to save some money is very high on every body's list. Gardeners are no exception. There has been a lot of talk about plant swaps and seed swaps lately, I have been doing mine for 8 years now! Apparently, it's the new IN thing.
WHAT!?!? You have never been to or have heard of a plant swap? If there is not one in your area, Organizing a plant swap is actually very easy.
How do you get started?
First off, locate a good place to have one. A city park, somebody that has a really large yard or even a vacant parking lot. The key elements here are, easy parking, lots of room for plants, bathrooms, tables for food (more on that later) and if possible something for the kids to do.
Okay, you have the perfect spot, let's say a city park. Call the city and see if you need any kind of paperwork, most of the time you won't but better to check anyway. Find out if you need to have someone open the bathrooms or if they are always accessible. You might want to check on the parking situation. Somewhere in here you also need to pick a date and time. That way when you call the city you can ask if there is going to be any conflict. When considering the time, figure on set up, the actual swap and clean up. I have people start coming at 10am, (some actually start showing up earlier just to chit chat). They can bring their plants, mill around a little and look at the other plants and ask questions. The swap then starts at 11am. The way I do it, the whole swap is over in about 30 minutes (if that long). You can usually tell the city you will be long gone by 1pm.
Okay, you have the place, date and time. The next step is the big one. PUBLICITY!
I spend a total of about $2 on publicity. LOTS of time, but very little cash.
HOW you say?
First, start with websites. Gardenweb has places for swaps. Blossomswap.com and Plantswap.net are also two very good places to post. Facebook, MySpace, Twitter any of the social networks are good. There might be others that I haven't heard about.
You can go to your local extension office. Every state has a Master Gardener program, touch base with them. Ask them to post it on their website or news bulletins. The local newspaper might have a Gardening Calendar that will post for free. Check to see if you have any small neighborhood newspapers, they might even do a story on it for you. Check with your friends and see if they belong to any Garden Clubs or Horticultural Societies, that is a great way to get the word passed around. Fliers, this is where I spend my $2. I create a flier, go to Staples and print out 25 or so. Post these at Libraries or any place that you see Yard Sale Signs. Make sure you have all the pertinent information on it, Date, Time, Place, What it is, how it works and a contact e-mail or phone number. You can also put directions on it if it is hard to find.

This is what mine looks like:

PLANT SWAP
Come swap all those extra plants you have
April 9th 2011, 10am setup
Park Circle, by the Gazebo

More Information:
Cactusmusic@netzero.com


The Specifics
10am set-up and browse....11am swap...immediately afterwards...LUNCH!
Bring ALL your extra plants, if it grows, it will go!
Including Houseplants!
Also any garden related items, Hoses, Garden Art, Containers, Etc.
We are having it at Park Circle in North Charleston, by the Gazebo. There are picnic tables, bathrooms and LOTS of room for kids to play and even more room for plants, parking and food.
Pretty much everybody in Charleston is familiar with Park Circle....there are numerous ways to get to it, depending on which way you are coming. If you want or need directions, e-mail me, I will get it and respond ASAP.
The way we swap will be the basic Free For All. I will say go, everybody will grab ONE (1) plant and take it to their hiding area. After everybody has a plant, we repeat the process. Nice and Simple!
We will have plates and napkins and such, Please bring your own drinks and a covered dish for as many as you can. We like to do a Pot Luck style picnic and encourage everybody to stick around and participate. The socializing afterwards is as much fun as the swap itself, please try to give yourself enough time to stay and enjoy yourself!

Very straight forward. I couldn't get the clip art to show here, but, I have a picture of a woman handing over a plant.
Okay, the place, date, time and publicity is done. How exactly does the swap work?
I am sure there are numerous ways to do these things. I do mine quick and easy. The general free for all. This will sound chaotic, but I promise it works, remember I have been doing this for 8 years.
As the plants start arriving, put them all spread out...no order, no groupings. Kind of like this:



This was just the beginning. Make sure you leave room in between plants for walking around room. Just keep spreading them around until everybody is there, right up to designated start time. Let folks wander around and look at all the goodies. Just before start time, ask if there are any questions about a specific plant. The person that brought it can probably tell you anything that is needed to know. You might be able to label some of the more exotic or lesser known plants. Having Master Gardeners around can be very useful here. I bring a magic marker and some extra labels to mark the plants that I grab so I know what to Google when I get home.
Then, if there are no more questions, have everybody step back a pace or two. Give them ready, set, GO! Have everybody take ONE plant. That is what the milling around is for, to find the first plant they want. Have them take it to a safe place, by their vehicle or just someplace away from all the action.
After everybody has grabbed a plant, and is back in position, do it again. After three or four rounds, have them grab two plants. Keep on going until all the plants are gone.
Sound like Chaos? It is to some degree, but it is also a lot of fun.

You will probably get some of the following questions:
How many plants should I bring?
A) As many as you want. I always bring lots of extras and usually take home very few. I have strange tastes and there usually isn't much that I want or need.
What should I bring?
A) If it grows it goes! You will see everything from showroom plants to stuff people just pulled out of the ditch. Houseplants, Bulbs, Perennials, Shrubs, Etc. I have seen some of the most dreadful looking plants be the first to go. It all depends on what they are, ugly rare will go before gorgeous usual.
I don't have very many plants, what else can I bring?
A) Garden Art, extra hoses, pots and containers, Garden Tools, anything Garden related. I have seen Chicken wire show up and be one of the first things snatched. They were going to make a compost bin out of it.

I also have anybody that wants to stick around afterwards and eat to bring food. Think Sunday social or picnic. Covered dishes. Tell them to bring enough food for themselves and a couple of other people. We have never run out of food. Have somebody bring plates and silverware. That's usually my mothers job. Also have them bring their own drinks, though we usually bring extra bottled water. The socializing after is as much fun as the swap itself.
Another tip is to get everybody's e-mail address.....use this for next year in the publicity department.
This what you are striving for:



I know this sounds like a lot of work, and it is, but the benefits and the appreciation from all the attendees will be worth it. Mine has been steadily growing every year, remember, word of mouth is a FANTASTIC,(free) publicity weapon. If you build it and they have fun, the word will get spread around.
What might be some of the benefits? It will be amazing what your neighbor down the street is growing that you had no idea would even grow where you live. Then there are the friendships that can develop because of a plant swap. Plus, you might just pick up that plant that you didn't even know you couldn't live without!
If you have any question, go ahead and ask....I am more than willing to help.....besides, if you are close enough to me, I might just show up to your swap!!
Happy Growing!
Darren

The Show Must Go On

On January 22nd, 2011 there is going to be a show in Charleston, South Carolina that all you Camellia lovers should not miss! The Coastal Carolina Camellia Society will be having their 61st Annual Camellia Show at Citadel Mall. The times will be from noon to 8pm for the public to view the prize winning entries.
You say YOU want to enter some blooms but don't belong to the society? No Problem!
Entries will be accepted from 7:00am until 9:30am at the Food Court at Citadel Mall.
ANY interested grower may exhibit.
Judging will begin approximately at 10:00am.

The Coastal Carolina Camellia show is the premier showcase when it comes to amount of awards that can be won. There are over 50 awards available including Novice and Local Awards.
Blooms will be grouped according to variety name and will be judged against other blooms of the same variety. Where a variety that produces different formations and variegation is shown, each formation will be judged against similar formations and variegations of the variety. A white spot, however small, shall indicate a variegated flower.
If only one bloom of a variety is entered, it will be judged against the standard of perfection of that variety and it may be awarded a blue, red, or yellow award at the discretion of the judges. The judges may withold any award, if in their opinion, a flower is not of sufficient excellence to warrant an award. Scale of points of the American Camellia Society will be used in judging. The decision of the judges shall be final in every instance.
The Coastal Carolina Camellia Society will furnish containers to all exhibitors.

There is a slew of trophies to be won. They will be awarded for each of the following:
CLASS A
Best in Open (Not protected)
Large-Vary Large
Medium
Small
RUNNER-UP
Large-Very Large
Medium
Small

CLASS B
Best Protected (Grown under cover, greenhouse, etc.)
Large-Very Large
Medium
Small
RUNNER-UP
Large-Very Large
Medium
Small

CLASS C
Best Seedling

CLASS D
Best Hybrid -Open

CLASS E
Best Reticulata -Open

CLASS F
Best Hybrid -Protected

CLASS G
Best Reticulata -Protected

CLASS H
Miss Charleston Variety
Best Open
Best Protected

CLASS I
Best Novice Bloom

CLASS J
Best White Variety
Best Open
Best Protected

CLASS K
Miniature
Best Open
Best Protected

CLASS L
Best Formal Double

CLASS M
Local Blooms
Best Large
Best Medium
Best Small

CLASS N
Best Species

BEST PRE-1900 BLOOM

If these classes don't make much sense to you, don't panic! There will be friendly folks there to help you with categories. It will be of great assistance, because there is so much going on, that you have at least an idea of what class you may be in. Already knowing the name of your bloom will also be a tremendous help. If time allows, the folks there can help you identify your bloom, but PLEASE, it is very busy and kaotic, if you can know the name before you come to the mall, things will go much smoother.

Of course, there are the obligatory rules:
I already mentioned that entries will be accepted from 7:00am until 9:30am. The Mall actually requires all blooms be placed by 9:30am.
Wiring of blooms to wood of parent plant is permissible and adviseable.
Only one bloom per stem is allowed.
Each bloom shall have one but not more than two leaves.
The Citadel Mall and the Coastal Carolina Camellia Society, its officers and members, are not under any circumstances responsible for the loss or damage to flowers or other property or for the injury to persons. Care will be exercised for the protection of all property used, but this shall not be interpreted as an assumption of liability.
Show Chairman or representative reserves the right to reject or discard flowers that are obviously inferior in quality.
All Camellias entered should be labeled with variety name.
All blooms exhibited must be from plants owned and in the possession of the exhibitor for at least 30 days.
Camellias grown under protection shall not compete with those grown in the open.
To prevent the spreading of disease, blooms become the property of the Coastal Carolina Camellia Society and will be disposed of immediately following the show.
Standard entry cards will be used.
To enter blooms in the Novice class a person must have never won a Blue Ribbon in any Camellia show.
Blooms must be classified as miniature, not miniature to small to compete in the Miniature Class.
And Finally, No bloom can compete in more than one class.

If you have ANY questions that have not been answered here, please feel free to contact me at Cactusmusic@netzero.com or my good friend Tony Smith at 1800helpme@gmail.com
Okay, You may not have any pretty blooms that are open that day. There is always next year. I would still encourage you to come and pay a visit to the show and see what did win. Ask questions. Learn as much as you can about what won and why something didn't. If NOTHING else, come on out because there will also be Camellia Plants for SALE!!
Happy Growing!
Darren

Please, I need to work in the garden!!!

It is only the first week of January and I am about to go stark raving mad! I want/NEED to work out in my garden. The weather the past couple of days has actually been in the 70's (it won't last) and I am getting bombarded with seed and plant catalogs. How much more can I take?!
I did order some really nice tomato seeds, that helped a little bit. I even did get outside a couple of times and started to clean up a little. I didn't do anything major, just a few pots that needed to be emptied, some limbs that had fallen, stuff like that. I still want to really get down and dirty!
Then....I got our monthly Master Gardener newsletter. There is some sign of relief.
What I am about to tell you is mainly for South Carolina or probably at least Zone 8 and higher, but it could relate to some others of you.
January is a time to start planting! Things like Beets, Carrots, Spinach, and the like.
According to Clemson Extension, I can and should have been planting Lettuce since December 20th. In my neck of the woods, this can go on all the way to February 5th. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination is 60 to 80 degrees. I am assuming they mean in a raised bed. I think my soil temperature right now is right around 58, but I am not sure how accurate my soil thermometer is.
Plant leaf lettuce in rows 1 to 2 feet apart with seed about one quarter inch deep and 6 to 10 inches apart in the row. It is impossible to space seed this small exactly at this spacing, you will have to thin the seedlings. Lettuce should be thinned when the plants are about 1 to 2 inches tall. Lettuce can also be planted in 12-inch-wide beds with the seed broadcast over the bed. On extremely cold nights it may be necessary to cover the plantings with a supported sheet or plastic covering, though it can handle light frosts. Lettuce should be ready to harvest about 75 days after planting.
Spinach can be planted all the way until February 25th. Plant spinach seed in rows 1 to 3 feet apart, spacing seed 2 inches apart in the row. Plant seed 1/2 inch deep and firm the soil over the seed to help ensure germination. Seed can also be broadcast on the 12 inch wide bed system. Make sure you are using fresh seed, older spinach seed does not germinate well. Again, you may need to cover on very cold nights. Spinach should be ready to harvest in about 37 to 45 days after planting.
Carrots are another one that I should have been planting last month. The dates for it are December 15th through January 30th for a Spring crop. Plant carrots in rows 12 to 18 inches apart with a quarter inch between the seeds. Being that carrot seeds are very tiny, try mixing the seed with dry sand to get even distribution. Ideally you will want to just pat the seeds down to make sure they have contact with the soil. You can cover, but you don't want it to be more than 1/8 of an inch down or the seeds will not be able to push themselves through to the sunlight. Thin the carrots to 2 inches between plants when they are 1 to 2 inches tall. Harvest carrots about 65 to 75 days after planting.
What would a garden be without beets? December 15th through June 30th is the recommended planting dates here. Plant beets in rows 10 to 30 inches apart and place the seed 1/2 inch deep with about 2 inches between the seeds. When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, thin them to 2 to 3 inches between plants. Harvest beets about 50 to 70 days after planting.
Radishes, Turnips, Rutabagas, Mustard, and Collards are some more things that can be planted now.
They all need as much sun as you can give them now. Remember, what is full sun in the Summer may not be full sun in the Winter.....plan accordingly.
Keep your seeds moist, but not soaking wet. They need some warmth and moisture to germinate. If you let them dry out, they are goners.
There are few things that are nice about having this kind of garden growing now.
1) There are not near as many insect problems, it's too cold for them. Yes, you may and will probably have some, but it won't be near as bad as say in July.
2) Weeds, there are fewer weeds growing this time of year. Again, you will get some, but they are much less a nuisance.
3) Disease pathogens are minimal. They will begin to multiply as the weather warms however.
4) Just having fresh veggies and digging in the dirt is a bonus for me.
This is also a good time of year to be planting and transplanting Roses, Trees and other Shrubs. The plants are basically dormant so there is no transplant shock or at least it is a lesser problem. They will have a chance to grow more roots because the ground is still "warm" compared to the air. All of the energy can go into the roots before it has to expel it for leaf growth. Besides, if you are looking for a great deal on trees, shrubs, and such, now is the time to be looking before the Spring rush hits.
Speaking of shrubs and trees you can and should also be spraying with a dormant oil right now if you have had insect problems in the past. What is dormant oil you ask? Most commercial dormant oil sprays are refined from petroleum oil. A few are made from cottonseed oil. These are highly refined oils (not motor oils!) which spread uniformly on the bark of trees and shrubs to which it is applied and coat non-mobile, dormant insects on the tree smothering them to death. It is best to spray before buds begin to swell. If buds of trees and shrubs have begun to swell slightly, go ahead and spray. Although some of the buds may be damaged, the benefits of spraying dormant oil far outweigh the possible infestation you may get. Spraying of dormant oil should occur on a clear day when the temperatures are expected to remain over 50 degrees for at least twenty-four hours. The ideal temperatures for application is between 40 and 70 degrees. Try to avoid using the dormant oil if a sever freeze is expected in 3-4 days. A word of caution however, if you have flowers growing under or around the tree or shrub you are spraying, cover them prior to application, it can and will kill them. Make sure you follow all label directions, this is the law!
One last thing you should think about. If you have never had your soil tested or it has been sometime since you last tested it, contact your local extension office and find out how, you will be glad you did.
Well, I hope this has given you something to smile about. The days are getting longer and Spring will eventually come. If you are as eager to get out and do SOMETHING in the yard, here are some possibilities. Now please forgive me, I have some lettuce to go plant!
Happy Growing!
Darren

Citrus Greening Hope

One of the nice things about the holidays is, you get to take time off from work, catch up on a few things and relax. Okay, strike the last part, who really gets to relax during the holidays?
I have been able to catch up on a few things though, namely a little bit of my reading. The stack of magazines and books I currently have would be a speed readers nightmare.
A couple of articles really grabbed my attention and they both pertained to Citrus Greening disease.
I was talking to somebody today from here in Charleston County (we are under quarantine for Greening) and she did not have any idea about it. I am doing a Citrus lecture for her garden club on the 11th, I think I am going to scare some of these folks.
Just to give some of you that may not know what Citrus Greening is, here is a Readers Digest version.
Huanglongbing (pronounced Hung-Long-Bing) or Yellow Dragon Disease is one of the most serious Citrus diseases. It is a bacterial disease that attacks the vascular system. Once infected, the tree will produce inedible bitter fruit, the fruit will not be able to ripen and the tree will ultimately die in a few years. There is currently no cure for the disease.
It is spread by a tiny insect known as the Asian Citrus Psyllid.

This is their feeding posture. 45 degrees to the stem. The adults are 3 to 4 mm (or 0.15748031496 inches) long with a mottled brown body. They are really very small. It only takes an infected Psyllid about 15 minutes to infect a tree.
It can also be transmitted by grafting.
The diseased leaves look like this.

This disease can be tricky to detect because it mimics many nutritional deficiencies. On the above picture, notice the non-mirrored yellowing. If this was nutritional the two sides of the leaves would be identical.
Like I said, this is an EXTREMELY short version of what Greening disease is. To find out if you are under quarantine here in the United States go to this link HERE It will tell you all you need to know.
Okay, that was your Citrus Greening mini lecture. I mentioned the two articles that grabbed my attention. The first one dealt with feeding the crap out of Greening infected trees to rejuvenate them. I guess the old cliche "Starve a cold and feed a fever" would be a good analogy here. Maury Boyd, a Citrus producer near Immokalee, Florida has successfully been applying a cocktail of nutrients to his ravaged trees. I won't go into the long list of what he is applying, but it is done three times a year just after each new flush of growth.
There is still many tests being performed on this treatment. The article goes on to say that Mr. Boyd is pleased with the overall health of his grove, he would have plowed them under before trying this method, and the fruit yields have met or exceeded industry average. Fruit quality has also improved.
I am not telling you to go out and start pouring all kinds of fertilizers on your trees, like I said, there is still MUCH research to do here.
The other article I mentioned will undoubtedly cause controversy. The title is "Genetic Engineering Tackles Citrus Greening". There was a lot of scientific mumbo jumbo, but I got the gist of it. Basically, to save the 9.3 billion dollar annual economic benefit to Florida, there may have to be some playing around with the genes of Citrus. The article also states that groups that are opposed to genetically modified foods of any kind may try to dissuade the public from turning to genetically engineered Orange Juice. It's not like they are trying to create a Frankenstein Orange, they have discovered that there are some genes in Spinach that may provide some resistance. They don't have a complete handle on all this yet, but it is in research. I, for one, have no problem with Genetically Modified Food or GMO's, though I am not sure if my Orange Juice had the aftertaste of Spinach, it would be all that great! Ha-Ha
This has been a VERY brief overview of what these articles said, both were 3+ pages long. I just wanted to show you that there is research going on to fix this horrible disease to Citrus. I remember just a couple of years ago there was a notion going around Florida that if something wasn't done soon the whole Citrus industry could be wiped out in 5-10 years! A very sobering thought.
One last thing I would like to mention. I know they have a huge stake in the Orange Juice industry, but if their OJ sales stopped they would not go bankrupt. I would like to THANK Coca-Cola for their 1.5 million dollar donation to research for finding a cure for HLB (Huanglongbing). Hopefully someday they will find one!
Happy Growing!
Darren

Cold Damage Identification and What to DO about it

The past month or so, I have made numerous blog postings about bringing in your plants and protecting them from the Winter weather. If you missed either of these postings, you can read it HERE and HERE .
Today I am going to talk to the people that, for one reason or another, didn't bring their plants in or try to protect them. They may have missed the weather report, forgot about their plants, or didn't want to take the time to do it and now their significant other is upset because the plant looks dead. There may be hope!
You will need to ask and answer a couple of questions: How cold was the temperature? How long was the plant exposed? What was the health of the plant before the damage?
First, let's take a quick look at what cold weather is and how it can affect plants. I know, duh, it's cold, they freeze! Well, just follow me for a minute.
The sun warms the soil surface during the day; the heat is then radiated into the cool atmosphere during the night. The coldest temperatures occur about daybreak.
Clouds at night can absorb and reflect heat back to the earth.
Calm, clear nights pose the greatest danger of frost since there is no wind to mix the ascending warm air with the descending cold air, and no clouds to radiate heat back to the soil.
Cold air settles downward, flowing like water,to the lowest point. Hot air rises.
The effects of temperature vary with plant species, stage of growth, age, general health and water content. Young, actively growing, flowering, and/or dehydrated plants tend to be most vulnerable.
Freezing temperatures damage plants by rupturing plant cells as ice crystals form and rapid changes in temperatures occur. Evergreen plants can suffer damage from blowing Winter winds and dry out when water is unavailable from ground that is frozen. Chilling injury can occur to many tropical plants although temperatures do not drop below 32 degrees.
The signs of cold damage can be confusing, since some damage may not be evident until months later. Leaves and tender shoots subjected to freezing temperatures or chilling damage appear water soaked and wilted. These tissues will usually turn black within a few hours or days. The tips of narrow-leaved evergreens, such as junipers, may turn uniformly brown. Broad-leaved evergreens, such as hollies, often have leaf burn along their edges. Less flowering is common during the following season.
One of the main things to remember is Do NOT prune frost-damaged, woody growth until the plant begins growing in the Spring. Pruning might stimulate new growth which would be vulnerable to late frosts. The frost damaged leaves and stems will continue to help trap warm air within the canopy. This is especially true in very large leaf type plants, such as Bananas. In addition, the damage is often not nearly as bad as it initially looked, new growth may come out of tissue that you thought was dead. Once the new growth starts in the Spring, you can prune out the dead wood.
A large, deep, crack running up and down the trunk of a tree or large shrub is known as a frost crack. The crack is usually on the South or Southwest side of the trunk, but can occur on any side. Young trees or older trees with smooth bark are the most susceptible.
Frost cracks occur when the sun warms the trunk in the Winter, causing tissues to rapidly expand or when clouds or buildings block the sun. At sunset the temperature of the trunk drops quickly to that of the surrounding air, and the trunk contracts. The outer part of the trunk cools and contracts faster than the inner tissues. This difference in contraction rates can cause the outer trunk to crack. You can usually eliminate this problem by wrapping the trunks with burlap or some other type of protection, not plastic, it needs to breathe. Start at the ground and work your way up to the first branch. Prevention is important, once the crack occurs, there is not much that can be done. Such frost cracks often close and callus over during the Summer, only to reopen in following Winters. This callusing and recracking may lead to the formation of large "frost ribs" on the side of affected trees. Something else to keep in mind, insects like to find places to hide and a large split open trunk is basically a "We'll keep the light on for you" sign. You could be looking at a major infestation. Frost cracks in trees are also ideal sites for the entrance of wood decaying organisms.
Desiccation, or drying out, is a particular problem on evergreen plants. This occurs when water is leaving the plant faster than it is being taken into the plant. During the Winter months desiccation can occur if the ground is frozen beyond the depth of the root system. If the Fall has been dry, there may not be enough ground moisture available for the plant. Water loss is greatest during windy, sunny conditions. This type of injury appears as discolored or burned evergreen needles or leaves.
After a killing cold some plants may be frozen back to the ground but lower buds and roots often survive. It can take these plants months to begin growth. Give them at least the Spring months to show signs of growth. I had a Clethera that did not regrow until Summer. I had just about given up on it but it showed me how persistent plants can be.
Okay, you have this plant that has lost all its leaves, looks naked and you are figuring it is a goner. Take a look at the bark or stem, is it black, shriveled or separated from the trunk? It’s most likely beyond help if it is. Don’t look just at the top but down at the base.
Next start high and scrape a small section of the bark. If you find brown at all keep moving lower until you find green, believe me you’ll know when you find it.
When you find an area of green, cut off everything above it, on that stem or branch. When you get done going over this you may have a plant that stands a chance of coming back. This really needs to wait until Spring though.
Remember, not only was the foliage, branches and stems exposed to the cold, so were the roots. No matter how hard you try the plant may not survive. The root damage may be so severe that you’ll be fighting an uphill battle.
As much as you may love your plant, you must be realistic, It may be too far gone!
I get teased all the time about my infatuation with what the weather is doing, what it is going to do and what it has done in the past. The best remedy is to keep your eyes on the weather, bring your plants in before the cold hits, and to grow things that are suited for your climate zone.
I hope everybody has a Very Merry Christmas!
Happy Growing!
Darren

Holy Hothouse Plantman

As any of you that have been following my blog, or have at least read some of the past postings, know, I have a greenhouse. I would be lost and in a constant state of depression without it. Where else can I go when the wind is whipping, the temperature is right around freezing, and sit around a bunch of tropical plants at 65 degrees and not leave my zip code?
I am not telling you all this to brag, but to maybe give you some ideas on what to ask for, for Christmas.
There are ALL kinds of greenhouse kits online, for all kinds of budgets. You can ask for one of those, OR, you can ask for a giftcard to a home improvement store to buy the needed supplies. I built my own from the ground up. Trust me it is not the prettiest thing in the world, actually it borders on grotesque looking, but it is functional. I promise it is not that difficult. I am nothing like my brother who is a cross between Bob Villa and McGyver, he can build anything out of anything and it be strong enough to hold a tank. Nope, I am lucky I know which end of a hammer to use.
Basically, you are building a big box with a roof and a door. As long as it is enclosed, you have a greenhouse. I am not going to get into the specifics here on how to build one, like I said there are kits online and plenty of floor plans out there. Many books with designs have also been written.
I am going to instead tell you what you need to do with that greenhouse after you unwrap it Christmas morning.
You have all heard the motto of a good business, The three things you need to succeed is location, location, location. The same holds true here. The greenhouse should be located where it gets maximum sunlight. The first choice of location is the South or the Southeast side of a building or shade tree. Sunlight all day is the best, but morning sunlight on the East side is the next best thing. I use my greenhouse primarily in the Winter, but it can be used all year round if placed in the correct spot. Deciduous trees,(trees that lose their leaves) such as Maple, can effectively shade the greenhouse from the intense late afternoon Summer sun. Deciduous trees also allow maximum exposure to the Winter sun because they do shed their leaves in the Fall. You do not want to use an evergreen tree, such as a Pine, because they will shield the greenhouse from the less intense Winter sun. Trust me, you want to capture as much of the sun at this time of year as you can. Remember that the sun is lower in the sky this time of year.
Good drainage is another requirement for the site. Yes, most of your plants will probably be on shelves, but some will not. Plus, you will not be on a shelf. If going out to the greenhouse after a heavy rain is a miserable experience, standing in the mud and muck, you are just setting yourself and your plants up for disaster.
One of the most asked questions I get when somebody is asking about my greenhouse is, "Do you heat it in the Winter"? Yes. They then proceed to ask how, how much heat is enough, what is a good source, etc, etc. These questions will depend on many things.
First, what kind of plants are you wanting to grow? You need to know the minimum temperature your "crop" can handle. The majority of things in my greenhouse can handle down into the mid 30's pretty much with no trouble. I am testing the limit this year with Theobroma cacao (chocolate), they don't like it below 40, but we will wait and see.
The next question would be: What is the greenhouse made of? My first year I had mine made out of 8 mil plastic. For those of you that are not sure what this is, think very heavy painters drop cloth, almost tarp like. It kept the heat in okay, nothing to write home about, but had to be replaced within two years. Plexiglass works very well, as does corrugated plastic and of course, glass.
Here, size does matter! If your greenhouse is 6 feet by 6 feet, you will not need as big a heater as you would if you had a greenhouse the size of a tractor trailer. Mine is 8 feet by 16 feet and I use a mid sized electric heater. Now remember, mine is not hermetically sealed, but in 18 degree weather in the middle of the night, I can maintain 33 degrees, cold, but not life threatening to the majority of plants.
Installing fans in your greenhouse is a good investment. Any kind will work, ceiling, box, oscillating, whatever you can afford and will fit. During the Winter when the greenhouse is heated, you need to maintain air circulation so that the temperatures remain uniform throughout. Without air-mixing fans, the warm air rises to the top and cool air settles around the lower part, where the plants are.
Watering can be very time consuming, especially if you have lots of plants. I almost have it down to a science. I drag the garden hose in there about once a week and just hose everything down. You need to be careful of any electrical cords, appliances(fans, heaters) or outlets you may have. As for the plants that don't need as much water as others, I put them where the taller, bigger plants block them. Higher shelves, corners, under over hanging shelves all work as water blockers. I have even stacked smaller plants on the soil of larger plants, the smaller ones need more and only after they have had enough, give some to the bigger ones.
A couple of other minor things to think about would be, Do I need additional lighting? Again, this will depend on the crop. If you are trying to grow Tomatoes, I would add more light. If you are just trying to keep something alive that may have lost it leaves or needs to go dormant, probably not.
Should I have a potting area? Only if you plan on spending lots of time and have lots of room in there. Again, mine is basically Winter storage for my plants. I do use some of the shelving in the Summer to repot or seed when I want to be out of the sun.
In the past, greenhouses were a luxury, today there are nearly 3 million hobby greenhouses in the U.S. and the number is expected to grow.
I hope this has sparked an interest in starting a greenhouse. Christmas is almost here and if you want to get a few hints out....cut out some pictures of greenhouses and leave them lying around. Send e-mails with greenhouse design websites to your significant other. If all else fails, send a letter to Santa! Whatever you do, get yourself a greenhouse.....you will be glad you did!
Happy Growing!
Darren

Plant Cold Protection

I posted last week about bringing your houseplants in for the Winter. Hopefully you all did. What about the plants that are just way to big to move or are in the ground? Again, I am lucky in the aspect that I have a greenhouse and a fairly decent, healthy back, so I can move my 30 gallon pots. What if you don't have either of the above and want to protect that plant that is marginal in your neck of the woods?
Lets see if I can give you a few ideas.
Although I live in the Southern part of the United States, Winter sometimes brings cold temperatures that can cause severe damage to many of our landscape plants. Early frosts in the Fall can cause damage on plants that are normally adapted to our area. Plants need adequate time to harden off (adjust to outdoor conditions) before freezing temperatures occur. A plant’s ability to withstand cold temperatures will depend on the plant species, but also on how low and how fast temperatures decrease. When temperatures gradually decrease, a plant can acclimate, or adjust itself, to withstand colder temperatures better. Sudden decreases in temperature cause more damage in Fall or early Winter than similar low temperatures well into Winter. New growth that has been stimulated by late Summer pruning or fertilization is very susceptible. Hopefully you weren't outside in the past month or two feeding your plants or giving them a haircut. If you weren't, then you are already ahead of the game.
Ideally, The best way to prevent cold injury to plants is to choose ones that tolerate the cold temperatures in your area. We all know though, that pushing the envelope is sometimes more exciting and offers a wider range of plants.
So, in addition to right plant selection, you want to put the plant in the right place. During the Winter, the coldest spots are often found on the North and Northwest part of the property and in low areas where cold air settles. The warmest spots are usually on the Southern part of the property. Placing plants under non-leaf dropping trees will add some protection, as will using a fence, building, wall or temporary shelter made of plastic. Placing plants near a sidewalk or street can even add a few degrees of protection. These things absorb the heat and give it back off at night. For container grown plants, their roots are more exposed because they are above ground. Push together container plants that are left outside and mulch or cover them to decrease heat loss from the sides of the containers. Wrap the base of the containers in plastic, burlap, or blankets to reduce heat loss. Remember also, that plants that grow close to the ground are usually protected by heat radiating from the soil. Plants that are tall and more open do not receive this radiating heat and are not protected from the cold.
Covering your plants helps protect them from frost as well as from extremely cold temperatures. Covers that reach the ground and do not come in contact with foliage form a layer of insulation from the cold temperature. To prevent foliage breakage, avoid having the covers (sheets, blankets, painters drop cloth, etc) touch the foliage. This can be accomplished by using tomato cages for smaller plants and lumber teepees for larger ones. Don't forget to weigh down the sides so a gust of wind will not blow it off. When extremely cold temperatures are predicted, place a light bulb (60 watts or higher) or other heat source (spotlight) under the cover to provide heat. You can also use some of the old Christmas lights that we all had as children, you know, the ones that would melt your toy if it came in contact with? Check the lights before relying on them, the newer ones do not produce any heat. Be very careful when using a bulb or other heat source, which can be a potential fire hazard. Do not let the bulb or heat source come in contact with the plant (Christmas lights being a kind of exception) or the cover. Remove the cover and provide ventilation during the day, the sun can very easily burn the plant or at the very least, the extra warmth could possibly cause the plant to break dormancy. This precaution is critical when using plastic covers.
Watering plants before a freeze can help protect them from cold injury. Soil that is well watered absorbs more heat and gives it back to the plants at night. I don't have this problem here, but, Cold weather can also cause the ground to freeze. When this occurs, water is unavailable to roots; plants continue to transpire (lose water from their leaves) and dry out. Watering the soil to thaw the ground makes water available to roots.
Mulch will act as an insulator, so it too can protect plants, especially from wide swings in temperature. Sometimes the cold temperature is not what damages the plant, it's the freeze/thaw cycle affecting the soil and causing it to "heave" the plant. The roots basically get thrown out of the soil and break contact with it. Something to keep in mind about mulch, this "insulation" works both ways. It can prevent the soil from drastic swings,and getting too cold, but it can also prevent it from warming up when the time comes. You may wish to rake it back away from the plants as it starts to warm up in Spring.
Now occasionally, Mother Nature actually provides the best blanket of protection in the form of a light snow. Up to two or three inches of snow not only insulates the ground around your plants, but it also provides a blanket of protection over the leaves. If you have a situation in your area (I don't, usually) that this could happen, you need to think way in advance.

This is a picture of some Wax Myrtles, before the wet, heavy snow, hit us in February of this year. They were about 10 feet tall prior. If the homeowner knew this was coming, if ANY of us had known this was coming, they would have been pruned back in the middle of the Summer. This event caused considerable damage. Of the limbs that broke, some were as big as six inches in diameter. This picture was taken too late to do anything about it. What should have been done, other than the preemptive pruning? Someone should have gone out there and lightly shaken as much of the snow off as they could. The plants are fine and rebounded, but the shape of them is not one of beauty, Mother Nature is definitely not a landscape designer.  
To sum this all up, healthy plants are more resistant to cold injury than plants that are weakened by disease, by insect damage, or by improper care. Plants that are being grown in their proper growing zone will do better than one that is 3 zones off. With an ounce of prevention, and a little work, you too will produce a plant that can wear a tag that states "I survived the Winter of 2010/2011".
Happy Growing!
Darren