Meyer a Lemon

There seems to be a resurgence of wanting to grow Meyer Lemons lately. I have been asked about them a lot. So, I thought I would give you some information about them.
The Meyer Lemon (Citrus × meyeri) was introduced into the United States from China in 1908 by Frank N. Meyer. The fruit more closely resembles an Orange than a Lemon internally as well as externally. It is a cross between a sweet orange and a Lemon. The plant itself has many of the lemon traits such as lemon-scented foliage, a serrated leaf edge, reddish new growth and purple tinged blossoms.
The fruit, however, has many of the characteristics of the sweet orange. The fruit initially turns yellow but then it continues to change to a deep yellow and sometimes even orange. It is a pale orange color with a decent lemon flavor, only sweeter than typical lemons.
Meyer Lemons tend to be a little more cold tolerant than normal lemons. Again, a sign of the sweet orange ancestry.
Here are some important facts to know:
# Meyer Lemon Trees perform best with full sun (at least 8 hours per day).
# Regular water with well drained soil. It does not like wet feet.
# Hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit
# Can grow in a pot to restrict size or in areas that can suffer a heavy freeze.
# Grows to 15 feet tall and wide or larger if planted in the ground.
# Sandy, well-drained soil.
# Low salt tolerance.
# Rounded growth habit.
# Medium rate of growth.
The Meyer Lemon has a thin skin and does not survive shipping well. As a result, the Meyer Lemon is not widely grown by commercial lemon growers.
I personally am not crazy about a Meyer Lemon if it gets too ripe. They are not bad, in my opinion, if they are picked just as they start to turn yellow. But do not go by my tastes, everybody is different. I encourage you to go out and try one. It may just become your favorite Citrus tree.
Happy Growing!
Darren

Why not bring the outside in?

I was asked to do an article on Houseplants. No Problem! I actually did a lecture on houseplants a couple of months ago and produced a handout. It looked something like this:
How to Care for your
HOUSEPLANTS

This leaflet is designed to familiarize you with the basic aspects of Houseplant care rather then attempting to acquaint you with specific cultural requirements of the more than 250 commonly grown plants known as houseplants. They help us stay in touch with nature and, in a sense, "bring the outside indoors."


SELECTING YOUR HOUSEPLANT:
Select only plants which appear to be insect and disease free. Avoid plants which have yellow leaves, brown leaf margins, wilted leaves, spots or blotches and spindly growth. Choose plants that really appeal to you. If you don't like the plant, you won't want to take care of it.

LIGHT: Light is probably the most essential factor for house plant growth. Light levels are classified in four categories: Low, Medium, High and Very High. Few homes have areas with sufficient light levels to grow plants that require Very High Light, so we will concentrate on the other three. High light plants can usually be grown well near windows or glass doors with western or southern exposures. Your Medium and Low Light plants are your best bet for Houseplants. These guys will do well in just about any window in your house.

WATER: Over and Under watering are the two biggest problems of houseplants. The general rule of thumb is: Stick your finger into the soil up to between the first and second knuckle. If moist, don't water, if dry, water. Make sure to give your plants a good drink. Water should be running out of the bottom of the pot.

FERTILIZERS: Use a good household plant food, there are many on the market. Follow the directions on the box. Again, a good rule of thumb is every two months from March until September. Growth slows during Fall and Winter and feeding is not needed.

CONTAINERS AND SOIL: Almost any type of container can be used for your plant. Just make sure your plant fits in it and the plant is not too top heavy so that it falls over. The most important thing to remember is that it have good drainage. Holes punched in the bottom will accomplish this. If you have a very pretty pot you want to display your plant in, but don't want to punch holes in it, no problem. Put your plant in a pot that is a little smaller than your pretty pot. Just remember to empty any water that accumulates in the bottom before returning your plant to the window sill.
Any kind of commercial potting soil will work. Again, you can buy all different kinds at the store. Do not use soil from your garden however. It will turn very hard and has the possibility of introducing weed seeds and insects into your home.

I hope this answered your questions. If there is something more specific you needed info on, please let me know.
Happy Growing!
Darren

I Am Cramped and Hungry.....Feed Me!

Not too long after I started my blog and started telling people about it, there was a few people that said "Great, I can do what you do!" Which scared me a little at first. What may work for me, may not work for them. I have come to accept this feeling now. Gardening is as much an art as it is a science. Toss in a little luck and there it is.
I tell you this because I have done a lot in the yard today and many may think I am nuts. Well, call me Macadamia and lets move on.
Just as a FYI, remember, I am a Zone 8 almost a 9.
The Citrus came out of the greenhouse for the LAST TIME this season, until November. Unless we get a spell of 20 something weather again, then disregard that last statement. They got fed and watered real well. I used a combination of Slow Release and Blood Meal. Next week they are going to get Fish Emulsion. I didn't get around to repotting some of the more cramped ones. They should just be happy they are out of the cramped greenhouse for now. Maybe next weekend.
I did get around to repotting the Camellias that needed it. They also got fed a very high powered lunch. Holly Tone, Slow Release fertilizer, Ironite and some soil acidifier. I know, that sounds like WAY too much. This is their first feeding since probably August of last year. Some of them maybe even longer than that. There were a few that showed some Nitrogen deficiency, so there that is. They too got a good drink of water.
The Potatoes are now planted in their 30 gallon pots. I am hoping this year to do better. Last year they were in too much shade and did not produce well. They are in full sun this year baby! Theoretically, I should get about 25 pounds of taters from what I planted today.
I have my 15 gallon pots ready to go for my 20 or so types of Tomatoes and 18 types of Peppers that are started and eager for Spring. The pots are all nicely spaced in their permanent positions, full of soil and most have the Tomato cages in place. I need to pick up a few more.
I am SO ready for Spring! Now I just have to get everything else done, pruning, raking and disposing of all the dead pots. I think I had some pretty heavy casualties this Winter. I will discuss them in a later post as I calculate the losses.
UPDATE: Two weeks ago I planted my onions. They are now about an inch high and looking great! The Asparagus still has no signs of life.
It was beautiful day in South Carolina, I hope you all had a nice day too. Spring is not far off folks, Get those Greenthumbs warmed up!!
If there is anything that you have questions about, feel free to e-mail me. There maybe others with the same question and it might make a good topic for a post!
Cactusmusic@netzero.com
Happy Growing!
Darren

Birds That Don't Know The Words

I have always been fascinated by Hummingbirds. They are graceful and beautiful. I have been contemplating trying to attract more of them this year. So I started doing some research on them and found LOTS of information. I thought maybe you would like to see what I found on this interesting little bird.



Hummingbirds are found only in the Western Hemisphere. Approximately 16 hummingbird species breed within the US. There are approximately 338 species of hummingbirds worldwide. In the eastern United States, the ruby-throated hummingbird is the most common but Rufous hummingbirds seem to show up all over the map so you can never rule them out. Hummingbirds eat insects. They need more than your nectar sources to survive. Tiny spiders and tiny flying insects might not appeal to you but they are "meat and potatoes" to a hummingbird. Now I want them even more, the No Seeums here are terrible. Eat up my pretties! In captivity, hummingbirds can survive for more than 10 years. In the wild 3 to 5 years is more likely.
Many native North American plants depend exclusively on hummingbirds to pollinate them. A female can care for more than one nest at a time. She might be building a nest while caring for already-hatched babies.
They are found as far north as Alaska and as far to the south as Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.

There are numerous ways to attract Hummers. Planting some of their favorite plants is a good start. Some of them are:
Beebalm (Monarda fistulosa)
Beardtongue (Penstemon cardinalis)
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia daviddi)
Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)
Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata)
Fire Bush (Hamelia patens)
Flame Acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrificius)
Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha)
Salvia Greggi
Red Salvia (Salvia splendens)

And of course you can purchase hummingbird feeders at many locations. Here are some tips to keep in mind when dealing with feeders.
Keep your sugar water fresh.
Recipe: Boil 1 part granulated sugar to 4 parts water.
(An example of this would be: 1 cup of sugar to 4 cups water)

Replace the feeder solution every 2 days in very hot weather. Also keep it in the shade as much as possible.
When you wash it, Wash out the feeder with very hot water.

As for when to put your feeders out? Here in South Carolina, the Hummingbirds begin to arrive the first week of April. Want to know when they will arrive in your area? Check out this website:

http://www.birds-n-garden.com/hummingbirds_spring_arrival_dates.html#S

It has a very detailed listing of when they should approximately begin arriving in your area. It is broken down by state.
I really would like to THANK.... Birds-n-Garden.com for supplying me with the information found here today. Their website is amazing!
Happy Growing!
Darren

A Touch Of The Grape

I got a really good e-mail today. The title was: Group Formed To Stop Grape Malady. It had to do with Pierce's Disease. The gist of the e-mail was to let winegrowers in California know that a referendum was coming up. It read: "The steering committee aims to convince growers to again vote “yes” for the Pierce's Disease/Glassy-winged Sharpshooter Referendum to continue the industry’s self-assessment to fund research working toward a permanent solution to the deadly Pierce’s disease virus". “Having effectively contained the spread of the disease and vector for over a decade, the control program is recognized as one of agriculture’s most remarkable successes".
If you have NO IDEA what this all means, I will fill you in.


Photo courtesy of UC Davis

PIERCE'S DISEASE is a vine infection by the bacterium Xyella fastidiosa. It is introduced by insects, The Glassy-Winged Sharpshooter or Leafhoppers, (Cicadellidae) they feed on vine sap by puncturing vine stems and shoots. The bacteria multiply inside the plant and eventually block the flow of water and nutrients, debilitating the vine's metabolic functions, reducing the crop and killing the vine in the worst cases within three to five years of infection. The insects move from vine to vine, spreading the disease throughout vineyards and regions and causing millions of dollars in damage.
The disease is native to the Southeast of North America and thrives especially in warm, humid areas. It is known to be present from California to Florida and south as far as Central America. This is why it is hard to grow many varieties of Grapes in South Carolina or in many other places in the Southeast. Native Muscadine grapes are resistant.
A little history about it. A researcher first discovered it in 1892 and called it Anaheim disease; it also affects almonds and alfalfa and the name was later changed, reflecting the name of its discoverer, Pierce. Since there has been no cure, it is one of the principal reasons that cuttings of grapevines and other plants are quarantined in moving between countries.
I have been growing Concord Grapes for 3 or 4 years now. The disease finally took two of my vines. I am hoping that the third and final vine will give me one more year at least. I have a couple of other varieties of grapes rooted in the wings to take over. Hopefully they will produce for a few years. According to Clemson Extension you can grow Grapes here, Special varieties should be grown in order for the vineyard to live for more than three years however. So I guess the search is on to find some varieties that are immune or at least somewhat resistant. Maybe I will have hit the jackpot with what I have rooted. I WILL miss my Concord's though. They made some really good jelly the past couple of years. I hope the referendum passes and someday they find some kind of cure for this. I want to be able to enjoy my homemade Concord Grape Jelly again!
Happy Growing!
Darren

A Cut Above The Rest

This coming week I am doing a lecture on pruning. We actually get a lot of questions pertaining to pruning at the Master Gardener office. It is often one of the most misunderstood concepts to gardening. I prepared a handout for my lecture and thought I would share it with you.

PRUNING
What, When and How To Do It

The definition of a garden could very well be:
“A Place That Has Been Pruned For The Benefit Of Both Plants And Persons”
The history of pruning is as old as the history of civilized man. From Ancient China to the Romans, Egyptians and Greeks. George Washington and Thomas Jefferson used pruning to create formal hedges around their respective estates.

Benefits of Pruning:
Pruning directs growth. You can bring a lopsided tree into balance, so the uneven weight will not break branches.
Controls the Microclimates. Allows air, and sunlight into the center of a shrub or tree. This will improve the health as the air circulates and sun penetrates to help prevent disease. Pruning out dead and possibly diseased branches can keep the infection from spreading.
Helps insure healthy transplants. Reducing the number of leaves helps the plant compensate for root loss during transplant.
Can rejuvenate an old, sparse tree.

When to Prune:
To answer this question, you need to know:
1)When the plant flowers
2)On which kind of growth it flowers (i.e. Current season, previous year or older wood)
Basic rules of thumb are:
1)If it flowers in the Spring, prune after flowering (Forsythia)
2)If it flowers on the new growth, Prune in Spring before they bloom (Butterfly Bush)
Other reasons to prune: Crossing branches, dead wood, diseased wood, to control height, control width.

Some Specific Examples:
Camellias: Anytime tolerated, but major work should be done in Spring.
Hydrangea: Late Spring after flowering
Nandina: Anytime, best before Spring growth
Ligustrum: Major cutting in Spring, maintenance pruning anytime
Ilex (Hollies): Anytime
Azaleas: Tip pinched after flowering. Older azaleas that need rejuvenation, cut back oldest branches to within a foot of the ground. Then do the same thing over the next two years. Never cut more than one third of the plant each year.
Roses: General rule....Cutting off old wood regularly produces new wood. The energy that would have been used in keeping the old wood alive, goes instead into new growth and flowers.
Some roses bloom on current seasons wood, others on last seasons wood.
The first group should have all three year old wood removed, do this when dormant.
The second group should be pruned after flowering.
This is a very general approach to what, when and how you should prune. If you want or need to know about something more specific, please touch base with me. I will be more than happy to assist you.
Happy Growing!
Darren

Let's Tip the Scale

I have had a bunch of trouble with scale type insects in the past. Matter of fact, I almost lost my Variegated Eureka Lemon to a bad case of scale. Scale insects are one of the hardest to control in horticulture. There are SO many kinds that affect SO many different types of plants. For instance, you have Tea Scale (Fiorinia theae Green) on Camellias. It is the most common and probably the most destructive insect pest of Camellias. They are sometimes hard to find because they infest the undersides of the leaves. They harm the plant because they suck juices form the plant itself. Symptoms of infestation include yellow chlorotic splotches on the upper leaf surface.

ADULT TEA SCALE

It's almost a gimmee that your camellias will get scale, but you can keep it from progressing to major proportions with proper control measures. Scale infestations are more difficult to control when populations are heavy. You should take action and make spray applications when the first sign of scale is seen. Horticultural Oil, particularly, Neem Oil, sprays and Insecticidal Soap will help control the scale if applied properly. Both of these can be found on Amazon by following the links. Always follow label directions. This IS the LAW! Both of these products are considered a contact insecticide. For them to be effective, the plants must be thoroughly covered. This way they smother the insect. Hort oils should only be applied during the Spring and Fall when the temperature is above 40, but less than 85 degrees. Spraying in the heat of the day may result in leaf burn.

When it comes to Citrus, we can REALLY Tip the scales here: Snow Scale (Unaspis citri), Florida Red Scale (Chrysomphalus aonidium), Purple Scale (Lepidosaphes beckii), Glover's Scale (Lepidosaphes gloveri), and Chaff Scale (Parlatoria pergandii). Some of the soft scale insects include Caribbean Black Scale (Saisseta neglecta), Brown Soft Scale (Coccus hesperidium), Cottony Cushion Scale, (Icerya purchasi) and Florida Wax Scale (Ceroplastes floridensis).
Luckily the only scale from this list that I have had to deal with is the Brown Soft Scale and the Cottony Cushion Scale.
I found this interesting information about the Cottony Cushion Scale from the University of Florida Website:
The adult female cottony cushion scale is capable of self-fertilization and lays about 500 to 800 eggs. Eggs are laid within an egg sac and are red and oblong. The eggs can hatch within a few days during the summer months but can take up to two months during the winter. The cottony cushion scale population increases most rapidly during the drier months and requires about four months for a generation. Fortunately, there is a heavy natural mortality among the eggs and the first instar nymphs.
Want to see what one looks like?


These things are usually big enough I can just smash them. They are kind of ugly, don't you think?

BROWN SOFT SCALE


The Brown Soft Scale is what almost took out my lemon tree. Brown Soft Scales are protected from insecticides or sprays by waxy coverings, so spray control measures should be aimed at unprotected crawlers. Spot treatments should be applied when scales are present. Applications of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil will kill scales, but at least three treatments are needed to control an infestation. Repeat every six to seven days until scales have been eradicated. Dead scales do not fall from plants, so you'll have to examine plants to determine whether the scales are dead or alive. Crush the scale - if it's dry, the scale is dead; if the body is juicy or leaves a streak when smeared on a piece of paper it was alive. How's that for being gross?!
The major point I want you to take from today's post is this. Take the time to inspect your plants regularly, the old adage of "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" really hits home here. Scale insects are a real pain to deal with, if they get out of control it can be almost impossible to eradicate them. Look for anything unusual, small bumps, discoloration, or anything small that is crawling. If you do all this, you too can "Tip the Scales" in your favor!
Happy Growing!
Darren